The holy city of Mashad is the capital of Khorassan Province in northeastern Iran. With the shrine of Imam Reza (PBUH), the eighth Imam of the shiite sect as its focal point, Mashad is located in a distance of 850 kilometres from Tehran. Millions of people pay pilgrimage to the holy shrine, undoubtedly the largest and most magnificent of its kind, every year. Before the city became known as Mashad, i.e., the place where the Imam was martyred in the year 203 A.H (Hejira) it was a small place by the name of Sanabad in the vicinity of the old city of Tus. The city of Mashad and its suburbs have a population of more than two million people. The city's climatic condition is varied with very cold winters, usually mild summers and pleasant springs and autumns.
Khorassan Province
The historical and the famous province of Khorassan is the country's largest province with an area of 314,000 square kilometres. It is bounded on the north by the Republic of Turkmenistan, on the east by Afghanistan, on the south by the provinces of Kerman and Sistan & Baluchistan, and on the west by the provinces of Yazd, Isfahan, Semnan and Mazandaran. The word Khorassan means “where the sun rises,” i.e., the east. It is a land of mountains and deserts with endless horizons and a unique enchanting tranquillity and splendour. There are various types of hunting animals, protected environments, a national park and on the whole an intact natural setting in this province. The natural setting here is a spectacular dual entity with the continuation of the Alborz range and the mountains of Binaloud, Hezar Masjid and Aladagh on one hand and the vast salt desert of Lut and endless plains on the other; so that the altitude is 300 metres above sea level in Sarakhs plain and 3520 metres on the peak of Mount Binaloud. The climate in different areas varies from hot and dry to cold highland weather; or to mild and temperate, but generally with little rain and humidity. The most well known rivers of Khorassan are Atrak, Kashaf Roud and Ghara Sou. The province's economy is based on agriculture (grains, beet, saffron, cotton and fruits), animal husbandry, light and heavy industry and rich mineral resources including natural gas (in Sarakhss). According to the latest population census, Khorassan has a population of over five million people who are generally Muslim and Persian speaking. Local dialects are also spoken in parts of the province. Other languages spoken sporadically in the area are Turkish, Kurdish and some Arabic. There are really few religious minorities in this province and they speak their own languages.
Khorassan in History
The vast territory
of Khorassan once covered parts of today's Afghanistan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan
and Uzbekistan when it was called the greater Khorassan. Khorassan has
been the cradle of the Persian language and the civilization of eastern
Iran. Socially and politically it has always had an extraordinary importance
in the organization of the Iranian state. In the post-Islamic period,
Khorassan was the first place where men like Abu Muslim and Taher Zulyaminayn
began their struggle for independence against the influence of
the Umavid and Abbassid khalifs. Cities like Marv, Bukhara, Samarkand
and Balkh were the capitals of Taherian, Samanid, Ghaznavid, Seljuk and
Kharazmshahian states and the centres for the expansion of the Persian
language and culture. Khorassan was destroyed by the invasion of Mongol,
but stood against the invaders with uprisings and movements like Sarbedaran.
Enemy troops again invaded Khorassan during the reign of Afshars and,
Qajars; and finally some major parts and cities of it were separated from
Iran and annexed to Turkmenistan and Afghanistan, during the expansion
of the British and Russian Colonial influence in Iran.
Khorassan Today
As the country’s largest province, Khorassan today IS one of the major economic and social centres of Iran. Its economy is particularly flourishing because of the importance of the holy shrine of Imam Reza (PBUH), the eighth Imam of the Shiite sect, which attracts lots of pilgrims to the centre of this province. Except Mashad, Khorassan has 16 other small towns and large cities. Road, rail, and airway links connect Khorassan to Tehran and other cities of the country. The Asian expressway crosses Afghanistan and Mashad before reaching Turkey. Khorassan Railway also links Mashad to Tehran via Sabzevar and Neishabur. Meanwhile, there are tens of direct flights between Mashad and Tehran. Khorassan is one of the major economic and industrial centres of the country. There are numerous large and small industries in Khorassan including those that produce natural gas, cement, food (sugar and canned fruit), textiles, wood, copper, metals, handicrafts, carpets, tiles, leather and stones like the province's world-famous turquoise. Meanwhile, there are a variety of ongoing agricultural and animal husbandry activities across Khorassan province.
The Sights of Mashad
The magnificent holy shrine of Imam Reza and the historical and artistic complex attached to it including the courtyards, porticos and porches, the Goharshad Mosque (the Timurid period) as well as its rich museum and library are the most significant sights to be seen by any visitor and pilgrim. There is a magnificent golden dome over the shrine’s building; surrounded by several porches. The Grand Goharshad Mosque is located to the south of the shrine, the museum and the tomb of Sheikh Bahaee to the southeast and Parizad and Balasar Schools to the west. There are plenty of priceless objects and unique manuscripts in the shrine’s library.
Other than a number of large beautiful parks, the other sights of Mashad are the tomb of Nader Shah, the national park, Kooh Sangi pool and recreation centre. There are also some other shrines and sights outside the city. These include the tomb of Khajeh Morad in a distance of 15 kilometres from Mashad along the road to Tehran, the tomb of Khajeh Rabi’ located 6 kilometres north of the city where there are some inscriptions by the renowned Safavid calligrapher Reza Abbasi, and the tomb of Khajeh Abasalt in a distance of 20 kilometres from Mashad along the road to Neishabur (the three personalities were the disciples of Imam Reza). Among the other sights are the tomb of the great poet Ferdowsi in Tus, 24 Kilometres away from Mashahd; and the summer resorts at Torghabeh, Torogh, Akhlomod, Zoshk, and Shandiz. Mashad is a tourist city with many hotels of various categories as well as a great number of guesthouses for the pilgrims who come to this city from the other parts of the country everyday by tens of flights, trains and buses.
Major Cities of Khorassan
q Sabzevar
The desert city of Sabzevar was previously called Bayhagh. It is located within a distance of 70 kilometres from Mashad railway station and 250 kilometres away from the provincial capital. It is a historical City and the main site of the Sarbedaran movement. Pamenar Mosque in Sabzevar dates back to the same period. The 13th century Jami Mosque and Khosrowgerd Minaret are two monuments that have remained from the time when the city was still called Bayhagh. The tomb of Haj Molla Hadl Sabzevari is in this city. Sabzevar has a tourist guesthouse.
q Shirvan
It is a small city about 210 kilometres away from Mashad at the border with the neighbouring Republic of Turkmenistan. The occupation of people in this city is agriculture and animal husbandry.
q Tabas
The small historical city of Tabas is located on the margins of Iran's central desert 600 kilometres southwest of Mashad. It was absolutely ruined by an earthquake in 1978 and was later reconstructed. Tabas has a desert climate and hot weather and most of its people are farmers.
q Ferdows
It is a small and desert city in the southern part of Khorassan. Ferdows was previously called Tun. It IS located in a distance of 180 kilometres from Tabas on the road from Tabas to Yazd and Kerman. This gives the City a significant role in the area. The 16th century buildings of Ulia and Hablbleh schools, the Seljuk period Jami Mosque, the Koushk Mosque and the Ismaeilid fortress of Hassanabad are among the historical monuments of this city.
q Esfarayen
This city which was called Mehrjan in the past is located 370 kilometres west of Mashad with a distance of 50 kilometres from the railway station.
q Bojnourd
Bojnourd is located 250 kilometres northwest of Mashad along the Tehran-Mashad road and on the slopes of Mount Aladagh. This old city of Khorassan province has a moderate climate. It was a significant governorate at the time of the Qajars. Interesting historical buildings have remained from that time including Ayeneh Khaneh (The Mirror House) and Mofakham Hospital. The tomb of Baba Tavakkol the 10th century poet, the shrine of Imamzadeh Sultan Seyed Abbassi. Baba Aman summer resort and Besh Ghardash mineral water spring. Bojnourd has a hotel and a tourist guesthouse.
q Taibad (Bakharz)
It is an old city located 250 kilometres southeast of Mashad in the vicinity of the border with Afghanistan. Among the historical monuments in this city are the tomb of Mowlana Zainolabedin Taibadi and a Seljuk brick minaret by the name of Karat Tower.
q Birjand
It is located 500 kilometres south of M shad in a dry desert area with varying climatic conditions and little water. There are a number of interesting sights in Birjand like the Jami' Mosque, the tomb of Hakim Abu Hamed the poet, the citadel, the Akbarieh building, the tomb of Ibn Hessam and several old fortresses. There is a tourist guest house in Birjand.
q Torbat-i-Jam
This city is the birth and burial place of the renowned 11th century mystic Sheikh Ahmad Jami, better known as Zhendeh Pil (ragged elephant). The city is in fact named after the great mystic. Located on the mountains 163 kilometres east of Mashad, Torbat-i-Jam has a desert climate with wild pistachio forests and vast pastures. The tomb and the Khaneghah of Sheikh Ahmad Jami and Shah Ghassem Anwar are among the city's historical sights. Torbat-i-Jam and its neighbouring areas have a rich and beautiful local and mystical music.
q Daregaz
Located in a mountainous region with hot weather 270 kilometres northwest of Mashad, Daregaz is situated near the border with the Republic of Turkmenistan. It was previously called Mohammadabad.
q Ghayenat
It is a city made up of several districts with Ghayen as their centre at a distance of about 400 kilometres from Mashad. Ghayen is an old city that has been mentioned in the travelogues of Nassir-i-Khosrow and Marco Polo. The Jami Mosque of Ghayen is an old monument, which has been reconstructed in the 14th century. The major agricultural product of this region is saffron.
q Torbat -i-Haydarieh
It is a new city located 140 kilometres south of Mashad and named after the 13th century mystic Ghotbeddin Haydar after whom the city was named as his tomb is in this city. The sights in this City Include Masjid-i-Gonbad, the remains of Sangan City (of the first century Hejlra) and Ghiassieh school in Khargard (of the 15th century).
q Ghouchan
A main road links Mashad to Ghouchan, a mountainous city with temperate summers and very cold winters at a distance of 150 kilometres from Mashad. The city’s old name was Khaboushan. There is a hotel and a tourist guesthouse in this city.
q Kashmar
Kashmar is located 240 kilometres southwest of Mashad in a mountainous desert region with fluctuating climatic conditions. The city’s old name was Torshiz, a city with a long history. The historical texts mention a cedar tree being planted by the prophet Zoroaster in Kashrnar. The 13th century Firouzabad Minaret, the Seljuk period Aliabad Tower, Bagh-i-Nazar and the Safavid period shrine of Imamzadeh Hamzeh are among the cultural monuments of Kashmar, The late Ayatollah Seyed-Hassan Modarress was exiled to, and later martyred and buried in Kashmar.
q Gonabad
This city includes the districts of Bidokht and Bajestan and the central district of Gonabad, which was previously called Jouymand. The 13th century Jami' Mosque, Imamzadeh Sultan Mohammad Abed in Kakhak, the ancient Jami' Mosque of Jouymand and the tomb of Joghtay the Mongol Ilkhan are among the historical monuments of this city. Gonabad has a tourist guesthouse.
q Neishabur
The historical and famous city of Neishabur is located in a distance of 150 kilometres from Mashad by the Khorassan Railway. The pre-Islamic history of Neishabur is evident by the ancient hills and the remains of fire temples as well as the name Neishabur. This is a well-developed city with flourishing agriculture and varying climatic conditions.
Neishabur was first the centre of Khorassan, but it was totally ruined and its people massacred during the invasion of Mongols. This city is the birth and burial place of a number of leading Iranian poets and mystics like Omar Khayam and Faridoddin Attar. Among the sights of this city are the tomb of Imamzadeh Mahrough, the Jami’ Mosque and the tomb of renowned Iranian painter Kamalolmolk in the vicinity of the tombs of Khayam and Attar. Neishabur has several hotels and tourist guesthouses.
Wildlife
Khorassan Province has six protected environment sites among which Tandoureh National Park located west of Daregaz is the most Important one. This park has significant heights, deep valleys and an almost evergreen vegetation, which makes it one of the major habitats of Oreal ram. Antelope, ibex and leopard are virtually abundant in this region. There are gazelles in Miandasht site located southwest of Esfarayen. Among the other protected zones are Sarigol and Salouk in the southwest; both mountainous regions with Oreal ram and ewe. Still another is Sarani region on the border between Iran and Turkmenistan, where there are plenty of juniper trees, which make it and ideal habitat for Oreal ram. Gharakhood region is also located in the western part of this province. Major forms of wildlife in this region are Oreal ram and ewe, antelope, ibex, Jabir, leopard, partridge, Caucasian partridge, yellow partridge, grouse and various types of birds of prey and migratory birds. The Oreal ram is the largest of its kind in Iran. It has long white beard and spiral horns that lend it a certain grandeur. It lives in rocky hills with small trees and is best seen in late autumn. However, we suggest you visit the province's environment also in late spring.
The Souvenirs of Mashad
Khorassan has always been famous for its handicrafts and objects of art. Carpet weaving, embroidery, textile making leather works and making ornamental objects with turquoise and other stones are among the arts and crafts that are still being practiced more or less in Mashad and other cities of Khorassan.
Revised: 27 May, 2002.