GILAN

The Land of Rice And Caviar, Traditional Villages

 

The Province of Gilan is a part of southern Caspian coastal region, and covers an area of 14709 sq km. This province is bounded on the north by the Caspian Sea, on the west by Ardabil Provinc, on the east by Mazandaran and on the south by Zanjan Province.

The high Alborz Mountains, sealing off the narrow Caspian strip, trap humidity and create a mild humid region with luxuriant forests and swamps. Being the most humid region in Iran, the annual precipitation is about 200 cm. The followings are Gilan's chains of mountains: the western mountains, which include Talesh and Masooleh Mountains and the eastern mountains including part of the Alborz. The rivers are numerous, most of which originate in the Alborz Mountains. But the Sefid Rood, the largest river in Gilan, originate in the interior plateau of Iran, flowing into the Gilan plain and then to the Caspian Sea. Other important rivers are the Pol Rood and the Shalman Rood (River).

Along the coast of the Caspian Sea there are many swamps, the largest of which are located in Anzali and Kelayeh. Anzali swamp is situated in the south of the of the Anzali port. and comprises the two protected areas of Siyah Kesheem and Selke, covering an area of 450 sq kms, this swamp is a place for the ovipositor of the fishes of the Caspian Sea. Moreover, it is the habitat of some species of migratory birds, because of which this swamp is of an international importance. The swamp supports natural vegetation, which is unique in its kind. There are recreational facilities for boating on the, swamp.

Amir Kelayeh swamp; which covers 4 sq kms, is located to the south-east of Lahijan city. It is the habitat of many aquatic plants and migratory birds.

The slopes of the northern mountains are covered with thick forests of oaks, beeches, elms, alders, box trees and olives. In the plains and in some mountainous areas there meadows and rich pastures.

The people who inhabit Gilan province are called Gilak, speaking the language of Gilaki. The Talesh ethnic group, speaking the Taleshi language live in the western Gilan. This group had a nomadic way of life in the past. Today, however, they have fixed residence. The religion of the Gilak people is Islam.

All towns of the province are linked through suitable asphalt roads with each other and with other provinces: the airport of Rasht, also, plays an important role in province’s transportation system.

Favourable natural conditions and the dam across the Sefid Rood River, completed in the early 1960s at Manjil, contribute to the development of agriculture. Most of people, therefore, are engaged in agricultural activities. The most important crop is rice, while tea, tobacco, citrus fruits, grain and peanuts are also produced, Gilan's industries are mainly centered in the suburbs of Rasht (the capital of the province), the most significant of which are food, mining, wood, tobacco, clothing and textile industries. Coalmines, oil and gas are among natural assets. Fishing is of high importance and fish are caught both for domestic consumption and for export. More than 100 species of fish are found in the Caspian Sea, the most important of which are bream, whitefish, salmon, mullet, carp, catfish, perch, roach and sturgeon, Having the best quality, the caviar of Iran obtained from sturgeon is an important export.

The capital city of Gilan is Rasht, while Astara, Ast-aneh-e-Ashrafiyyeh, Anzali, Fooman, Lang-rood, Lahijan, Rood-Bar, Rood-Sar, Souma'eh-Sara, Talesh and Masouleh Village are the other towns and one of the traditional villages of the province.

Rasht

located in the center of the plateau of Gilan, Rasht is 323 kms distant from Tehran. It has a mild humid climate. Dating back to the pre-Islamic period, this city has been an important center for trade and agricultural activities. While these continue to be of high importance in the economy of Rasht, the development of industries has changed it into a semi industrial city. Utilitarian and decorative articles in wood and crochet produced in Rasht have nation-wide fame.

Astara

Astara is a border town situated 184 kms north-south of Rasht. The Astara River, Flowing in the north of the town, is the border between Iran and the Azerbaijan Republic. In addition to natural beauty, there are other sights such as the garden of Abbas Abad, the mausoleum of Imamzadeh Ibrahim and Esteel swamp attracting a great number of visitors. Apart from tourism industry, agriculture and apiculture are the other sources of income.

Anzali

Situated 40 kms north-west of Rasht, this town is the most important northern seaport of Iran. It is a peninsula, 33 kms long, separating Anzali swamp from the Caspian Sea. Fishing, exporting caviar and tourism are among the main sources of income in Anzali. Pol-e-Ghaziyan, Shanbeh Bazaar (the market on Saturdays), the palace of Miyan-Poshte are among inserting places to see. Anzali swamp, having fascinating landscapes, attract many visitors. This seaport links Iran with the Black Sea via Volga-Don channel.

Masouleh

 Masouleh Situated in a mountainous area covered with lush vegetation and luxuriant forests, Masouleh is a village enjoying splendid natural beauty. Being a village of great antiquity, it is like a living architectural and anthropological museum, attracting a great number of tourists each year.

Masouleh is 36 kms south-west of Fuman, in this province. It is bounded on the north by the village of Alyan, on the east by Shaft, on the south by Poshtkuh-e Khameseh, and on the west by Zanjan province. It is surrounded by the Talesh mountains, some of which, located in the west, are more than 3000 meters high. Although Masouleh is near the Caspian Sea, it is 1050 meters above sea level. This creates a pleasant climate. Lying between the sea and the high Alborz Mountains, witch trap humidity from the air, it enjoys a pleasant climate with high annual precipitation and lush vegetation. The fluctuation of temperature varies from a high of 20 in summer to a low of –2C in winter. The annual average precipitation is 713 milimeters, witch occurs mainly in autumn and winter.

The most important mountains, affording spectacular landscapes, are: Kuh-e Rash, Kuh-e Makuf, Kuh-e Dasht-e Gileh sar and Kuh-e Gur. Many rivers originate in the mountains, the largest of which is the Masouleh Rud. This river witch is formed by the merging of the Zangol and Gilvan rivers, runs as a mountain stream but flows into the plain and then to the swamp of Siyah Kashim. There are some other rivers, like Andareh and Nilikhali, merging into the Masouleh Rud. In this area are found broad-leafed deciduous trees – maple, hornbeam, beech, walnut and taxus. Grass and vetch grow on the highlands.

Masouleh dates back to great antiquity and was on the road connecting Azebakjan to Gilan. The ancient village of Masouleh was located 4 kms north-west of the present one. Masalar and Khortab Khani are old names of the village. In winter, it is thinly populated, since most people leave the village, the people living in Masouleh are the Talesh ethnic group, speaking the Taleshi language.

Because of the topographical features, agriculture is not an active industry and most people are engaged in animal husbandry and producing handicrafts. The articles such as gelims (rugs made of goats’ hair), jajims (fine carpets made of wool or cotton), socks, traditional dress, knives, spades, axes, scissors, and scythes are produced in Masouleh, Making a certain type of shoes called chamush are produced in the tanneries of the village itself. The shops selling traditional goods are scattered throughout Masouleh. Some people earn their livings by selling goods to the shepherds and buying dairy products from them. Apart from natural beauty, the unique architecture of the buildings is of high attraction for tourists. Most houses are two or three stores high. Set on the slope of the mountain, the houses are arranged in a stair-step, so that the roofs of some houses are the yards of the others. The roofs also form the public passages.

Masouleh consists of four neighborhoods: Khanehbar, Masjedbar, Asad and Kash-e Olya. It covers and area of 150000 square meters, and the difference between its highest and lowest point is 100 meters. The configuration of the village indicates that in the past the people showed much consideration for security. The houses and the decorations used in the rooms represent the oriental character of life. The lattice windows and closets with exquisite decoration are exponents of the original Iranian craftsmanship. Most houses include a certain hall in which the family lives in winter, a small veranda extending from the front of the house, and a guest-room. The houses of the rich include certain small rooms in which precious articles are kept.

The Materials used for building the houses are mud-bricks, stones, timbers, clay and wild ferns (which abound there and are used in the roofs). Two kinds of soils, called yellow soil and dark soil, found on the river, are used for covering the outer walls and the roofs respectively.

The configuration of the village’s buildings makes the entering of the automobiles impossible. This has helped the original atmosphere to survive. The oldest buildings date back to 300 years ago, but their architecture is similar to that of the Sassanian period. There are eighteen mosques and five shrines in Masouleh, the most important of which are Jame’ mosque and the mausoleum of Imam Zadeh Ownebn-e Mohammad-e Hanafiyyeh located in the neighborhood of Masjedbar. The door of the mausoleum, on which there are highly impressive carved designs, is made of ebony,

The bazaar from which a spectacular landscape can be seen, is roofless and multi-storied. It is in the bazaar that many of handicrafts are produced and sold.

The library of Masouleh, dating back to thirty years ago, includes over 5000 volumes. The hotel of Masouleh is an impressive building.

The people living in Masouleh have the greatest respect for their own traditions. A religious ceremony called Touqbandi, being of high importance, is taken place in the seventh night of each lunar Islamic year, in front of Jame’ mosque. The wedding ceremonies are also of high importance. In the wedding night, the bride followed by her relatives and friends who are singing songs praising Ali (peace be upon him), the first imam of the shi’ it branch of Islam, walks to the groom’s home, entering it just at dawn. Splendid natural beauty, a pleasant climate, luxuriant forests, lush vegetation, the unique architecture of the buildings and hospitable people make Masouleh a point of great attraction, regarded and registered as a national asset.

Gilan's Handicrafts

The handicrafts of Gilan are rich in diversity, the most well-known of which are decorative and utilitarian articles in wood, straw mats, gelims (carpets made of goats' hair), jajims (fine carpets made of wool or cotton), earthenware, ceramics, charooghs (peasants' shoes) and felt carpets. Olive, various kinds of regional jams and sweets (the most well-known of which is Koloocheh) produced in Gilan have nationwide fame.